The safest way to invest is to invest only a little (and make sure it's your own money). But then you need to achieve quite a substantial return to make real money. This essay is designed to allow you to legitimately seek a substantial return on a very small investment. There are, however, no guarantees, except the one that you won't lose more than you invest - if it's your own money you're investing. More on this later. This guarantee is provided by the markets, not by me, and it can only be enforced if you do your due diligence. It is up to you to know how much you have at risk.
Buying more expensive stocks has the advantage of probably making them easier to sell. They will tend to go to your target in an orderly way, and linger there for a longer period of time. If you don't watch them every day, but only check them from time to time, you are more likely to still be able to sell them.
This (see next post) is a wholly arbitrary selection of stocks, just designed to impartially limit the length of the list.
I looked at all the charts (5 year charts, which I can access relatively fast), and saw patterns that suggest historically good prices in most of them. If a stock is going to double, buying it at a good price vs buying it at a bad price is what makes the difference for you. I've listed what I think are good prices for all these stocks (except the few which you should ignore).
Buying at a specified price means using limit orders. A limit order tells the market "I will buy x number of shares at or below this price." Your order will only be filled if the market reaches that price. You're telling the market "I want to buy low, not high. When you're ready, give me this low price I like."
The alternative to limit orders is market orders. They're dangerous! You are telling the markets "just give me these shares, and bill me whatever you want for them." A market could just go ahead and do that.
Your mission is to double your money in a trade. All of the listed prices should make that possible with ease, unless otherwise noted. Some of them are listed with two prices. The higher price doubles your money, the lower one quadruples it. Why buy at two prices? Because the lower price might not be reached - and there's a pattern that suggests the higher price is a good price.
Those and one or two others are listed for four times appreciation.
Appreciation is measured from the recommended purchase price, not from the current price (except where the current price is the recommended price).
In a way, my mission here is to encourage you to buy cheap. Though some of the patterns suggest appreciation is likely from the current price, most of them suggest the stock is currently overpriced. Thus, if you are looking at that overpriced stock, I'm telling you to wait for a lower price, which I specify, if I can.
I'm specifying lower prices that I think will be achieved. The patterns tell us two things: what a low prices is, and what low price is likely to be achieved. You can then say that a particular stock is likely to reach a certain low price, and is likely to be cheap there, so it's worth watching that stock with an eye to buying it when it becomes cheap.
Time frame: I feel like the ups and downs in stocks average about a two year cycle. You might need to wait a year to get the cheap price, and then another year to sell for a double or for four x.
The hardest part is watching a list of stocks every day. The easiest way is probably to note target prices on the list, and then to look at just price quotes every day. I need to work on this, still.
There is absolutely no guarantee a price I've identified as being cheap will turn out to in fact be cheap. You risk losing any money you invest in stocks. Don't invest more than you can easily afford to lose. This system is not ideal for very small accounts. Let's see, 4 stocks are listed as good now. If you buy $100 of each, you might make good money, and it'll cost you $450. If that's all you want to invest (in this system) ... well, it's OK. Just wait for them to go to your targets, sell them, and look for new cheap ones to buy. But, again, there's no guarantee of any kind. You could loose all of that $450.
If I just tell you what stocks are cheap at what price, what can you do without me? At least study the charts I've identified as being cheap, now, and see if they speak to you. Also, study the low prices I've identified, and see if you can get a sense of how I identified them. Then study the target prices I've identified the same way. Then you can go to any list of stocks and look for cheap prices and attractive targets.
If you are reading these posts after November 20, 2011, remember, when looking at charts, that the recommendations were made on that date. You should be able to see charts for most of these stocks using free charting, such as Yahoo!Finance (or search for "stock charts" or "free stock charts." If you want to investigate cheaper stocks, which I recommend, you might find the data at Yahoo!Finance is limited. I use Scottrade for my charting. Their charts are quite complete. Of course, you need to have an account. (Some of the non Yahoo free charting sites might have better data.)
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